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Travelling to Santorini?

Santorini is the rim of a drowned volcano: the white villages hang off the caldera’s edge, which is why the sunsets are what they are. Oia jams up at dusk. The same view exists in Imerovigli without the crowd.

Santorini, Greece
© George M. Groutas · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

JTR

What to see in Santorini

8 ROUTES

Our routes, not a list of everything. Places that have been there for centuries: no opening times or prices, which go stale.

  1. 01

    Santorini in a day

    9 h
    You’re standing on the rim of a volcano that blew three thousand six hundred years ago. Everything else here (the view, the wine, the soil) comes from that.Fira and the caldera rim · Akrotiri · A black beach · The sunset, and where not to watch itRead the full guide
  2. 02

    A weekend in Santorini

    20 h
    Fifteen thousand residents and millions of visitors a year: with that arithmetic, what decides your trip isn’t what to see but what time you leave.Saturday at eight: the rim walk · Saturday afternoon: the wine · Saturday at dusk: Amoudi · Sunday: the island that livesRead the full guide
  3. 03

    What to see in Santorini

    6 h
    At Akrotiri they found no bodies. No jewellery. The people left beforehand, with their things: the volcano warned and they listened.Akrotiri · Ancient Thera · The coiled vines · The cliff donkeysRead the full guide
  4. 04

    Where to eat in Santorini

    3 h
    The vines here grow coiled on the ground and have never been grafted. The tomato, besides, is grown without watering it once.Assyrtiko · The tomato nobody waters · Fava, which isn’t broad bean · Where not to eatRead the full guide
  5. 05

    Santorini’s villages

    5 h
    Oia jams at sunset and everyone knows it. What almost nobody says is the same view is two villages away, empty.Oia · Imerovigli and Firostefani · Pyrgos and Emporio · The outer face: Perissa and KamariRead the full guide
  6. 06

    Day trips from Santorini

    8 h
    The volcano is still active and you can walk on it: it’s in the middle of the bay, the ground smokes and it’s half an hour by boat.Nea Kameni: walking on the volcano · Thirasia · The islands next door · The sunset boatRead the full guide
  7. 07

    From Santorini airport to Fira

    1 h
    There are around thirty taxis on the whole island and that isn’t an exaggeration. With flights landing together, the queue can hit ninety minutes.The bus: it’s always there · The taxi: thirty on the whole island · The car and the quad bike · The port, which is another storyRead the full guide
  8. 08

    Santorini: practical tips

    1 h
    Santorini has no fresh water. It never has: what comes out of the tap comes from a desalination plant, and you don’t drink it.The water and the sun · The meltemi · The cruise ship clock · Money, season and expectationsRead the full guide

Airport to city centre

2 OPTIONS

The real options, with what actually decides it: which terminal it leaves from and where it drops you. Fares and timetables live with the operator, who keeps them current.

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