Travelling to Athens?
Athens is the Acropolis and everything at its feet: Plaka, the Monastiraki markets, and a rooftop scene staring at the Parthenon. Go up first thing or last thing: at midday the marble is an oven.

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What to see in Athens
8 ROUTESOur routes, not a list of everything. Places that have been there for centuries: no opening times or prices, which go stale.
- 01
Athens in a day
9 hThe Parthenon was intact until 1687. Centuries didn’t fell it: a Venetian shell did, because there was an Ottoman powder store inside.The Acropolis · The Acropolis Museum · The ancient Agora · Plaka at duskRead the full guide - 02
A weekend in Athens
20 hAthens was a village of ten thousand when it was made capital in 1834. Everything between the ruins was built afterwards.Saturday: the rock and what’s under it · Saturday night: Psyrri and the rooftops · Sunday: the archaeological museum · Sunday afternoon: an island, or the capeRead the full guide - 03
What to see in Athens
8 hIn one case there’s a bronze computer two thousand years old. And at the stadium, marble even in the stands: the only one on earth like it.The Antikythera mechanism · The Panathenaic Stadium · The changing of the guard · What they found digging the metroRead the full guide - 04
Where to eat in Athens
3 hThe frappé was invented in 1957 because a man couldn’t find hot water at a trade fair. Today it’s an entire country’s national drink.Coffee, and its rules · Souvlaki and gyros: not the same · The taverna, and how it works · The central marketRead the full guide - 05
Athens’ neighbourhoods
5 hBelow the Acropolis there’s a real Cycladic village, white houses and steps. The builders who came to make the palace built it.Anafiotika · Exarcheia · Psyrri and Kerameikos · Koukaki and the slopesRead the full guide - 06
Day trips from Athens
10 hThe islands start an hour away by boat from Piraeus. And on one of them there isn’t a single car: transport is mules.Hydra · Delphi · Epidaurus and Mycenae · Cape SounionRead the full guide - 07
From Athens airport to the city
1 hThe metro reaches the centre, but the airport branch isn’t 24-hour. Land in the small hours and there’s one option, and it’s a bus.The metro, and its hours · The express bus: the 24-hour one · The suburban rail: for the port, not the centre · The taxi, and when it makes senseRead the full guide - 08
Athens: practical tips
1 hIn recent summers the Acropolis has closed at midday for heat. That isn’t an anecdote: it’s how you have to plan the day.The heat, and how the day is organised · August: the city leaves · Money and tipping · Things specific to this cityRead the full guide
Airport to city centre
3 OPTIONSThe real options, with what actually decides it: which terminal it leaves from and where it drops you. Fares and timetables live with the operator, who keeps them current.
- MetroM3Síntagma · MonastirákiThe blue line runs into the heart of the centre. The airport ticket is a special one, pricier than the city fare.·Fares and timesSTASY
- TrainProastiakósLarissa Station · PiraeusThe suburban rail shares tracks with the metro for a stretch. Best for the port of Piraeus or Corinth.·Fares and timesHellenic Train
- BusX95SíntagmaThe round-the-clock express: it runs 24h, including when the metro is shut.·Fares and timesOASA
VIP lounges in Athens
5Before you fly, or on the layover. Pay per visit, whatever airline.