Travelling to Dublin?
Dublin is a small capital, you cross it on foot in half an hour, with a literary density out of all proportion to its size: four Nobel laureates came from here, and a novel that takes place entirely over one day in its streets. The river Liffey splits it in two, and that north-south divide still means something to people here. Ireland is in the European Union but not in Schengen, which catches people out at passport control.

DUB
What to see in Dublin
8 ROUTESOur routes, not a list of everything. Places that have been there for centuries: no opening times or prices, which go stale.
- 01
Dublin in a day
9 hA manuscript from around 800 AD and a brewery with a nine-thousand-year lease. All within half an hour on foot.Trinity College and the Book of Kells · The castle and the cathedrals · The Guinness Storehouse · A pub, and not in Temple BarRead the full guide - 02
A weekend in Dublin
20 hThe second day heads for the sea: there’s a cliff walk with seals at the end of a commuter line.Saturday: the city · Saturday afternoon: Kilmainham Gaol · Sunday: Howth · Sunday alternative: the south of the bayRead the full guide - 03
What to see in Dublin
14 hFour literature Nobels from a city of a million, and a novel with its own holiday every 16 June.Joyce’s Dublin and Bloomsday · Phoenix Park · The EPIC museum and emigration · The national museums, which are freeRead the full guide - 04
Eating and drinking in Dublin
3 hThe pint is poured in two stages with a rest in between. Hurrying the barman is the surest way to look foolish.The pint, and why it tastes different here · Coddle and home cooking · Seafood and breakfast · Whiskey, with an “e”Read the full guide - 05
Where to stay in Dublin
1 hThe Liffey splits the city north and south, and that divide has meant something for two hundred years.Temple Bar and around · Grafton Street and St Stephen’s Green · The Northside: O’Connell Street and Smithfield · The Docklands and BallsbridgeRead the full guide - 06
Day trips from Dublin
10 hA five-thousand-year-old tomb, older than the pyramids, aligned with the winter solstice sunrise.Newgrange and Brú na Bóinne · Glendalough and the Wicklow mountains · Belfast · The Cliffs of Moher, with a warningRead the full guide - 07
From Dublin airport to the centre
1 hThere’s no train, and the bus the guides recommend no longer exists. Two expresses and two city buses remain.Dublin Express, the most practical · Aircoach, and the late-night flight · City buses 16 and 41, the cheap option · The taxi, and the trafficRead the full guide - 08
Dublin: practical tips
1 hIreland is in the European Union but not in Schengen, so there’s passport control even coming from Paris.Borders, currency and the north · The weather, which changes hourly · The Leap card and getting around · Prices and tipping · Mobile dataRead the full guide
Airport to city centre
4 OPTIONSThe real options, with what actually decides it: which terminal it leaves from and where it drops you. Fares and timetables live with the operator, who keeps them current.
- BusDublin Express (782 / 784)Centro: Trinity College, O’Connell Street y HeustonThe fastest and most frequent into the centre, stopping where it’s useful (Trinity College, the castle, Heuston station) with luggage space. It’s one of the two services that replaced the Airlink 747, which stopped running and no longer exists however often the guides still name it.·Fares and timesDublin Express
- BusAircoach (700 / 700X / 702)Centro por Grafton Street, y zona surThe other express, and the one that solves late arrivals: route 700 runs around the clock, with departures every thirty to sixty minutes overnight. The 702 serves the south side if you’re staying around Ballsbridge or Donnybrook.·Fares and timesAircoach
- BusDublin Bus 16 y 41Centro, parando en todoThe ordinary city buses, and the cheap option: they take considerably longer because they stop in every neighbourhood, between fifty minutes and an hour or so, but they’re paid with the Leap card like any city bus. With light luggage and no hurry, they work.·Fares and timesDublin Bus
- TaxiCentro de DublínThe ranks are signposted outside both terminals and the taxis run on a regulated meter. The airport is about ten kilometres from the centre, so the ride is short. The problem is rush-hour traffic coming into the city, which can double the time. There is no train: it’s bus or taxi.·Fares and timesTaxi
VIP lounges in Dublin
1Before you fly, or on the layover. Pay per visit, whatever airline.