Travelling to Delhi?

Our routes, not a list of everything. Places that have been there for centuries: no opening times or prices, which go stale.

1. 01

   Delhi in a day

   9 hAn iron pillar sixteen hundred years old stands there without rusting. Nobody has fully explained it, and it isn’t in a museum: it’s out in the open.The Qutub Minar · Humayun’s Tomb · Chandni Chowk · The Delhi the British builtRead the full guide
2. 02

   A weekend in Delhi

   20 hDelhi is seven cities stacked, and that isn’t a figure of speech: seven distinct capitals, built over a thousand years, and all still there.Saturday morning: the south, the oldest part · Saturday afternoon: Nizamuddin · Sunday morning: the kitchen of ten thousand · Sunday afternoon: the gardens and the tombsRead the full guide
3. 03

   What to see in Delhi

   9 hThe tomb that inspired the Taj Mahal is here, and it’s eighty years older. Almost nobody comes to Delhi for it, and that’s the mistake.Humayun’s Tomb · The Red Fort · The stepwell in the middle of town · The places of 1947 and 1948Read the full guide
4. 04

   Where to eat in Delhi

   3 hButter chicken was invented here, by Partition refugees. The most famous Indian dish in the world is under eighty years old.Street food, with rules · The Mughal food of Old Delhi · The Punjabi invention · Tea, and how to order itRead the full guide
5. 05

   Delhi’s neighbourhoods

   6 hChandni Chowk was named for a canal reflecting the moon down the middle of the avenue. That gives the measure of what’s gone and what remains.Old Delhi · Lutyens’ Delhi · Hauz Khas and the south · Paharganj, and where to sleepRead the full guide
6. 06

   Day trips from Delhi

   12 hThe Taj Mahal closes on Fridays, and that sentence has wrecked more trips than any other. It’s two hours by express train and doable in a day.The Taj Mahal · Fatehpur Sikri · Jaipur · The train, which is half the tripRead the full guide
7. 07

   From Delhi airport to the city

   1 hThe good taxi counter is OUTSIDE the terminal. The ones inside charge two or three times the real fare, and look just as official.The express metro · The prepaid counter: which one and where · The apps · What not to doRead the full guide
8. 08

   Delhi: practical tips

   1 hFrom November to January Delhi’s air is a public health problem, not picturesque haze. That decides when to come.The real calendar · The water, and the stomach · The metro, and the women’s carriage · How to behave, and hagglingRead the full guide

The real options, with what actually decides it: which terminal it leaves from and where it drops you. Fares and timetables live with the operator, who keeps them current.

• MetroAirport Express (Naranja)New Delhi Station (enlace Amarilla)The metro’s orange express line. Air-conditioned, with baggage screening: the calm way in.·Fares and timesDMRC
• TaxiConnaught Place · PaharganjWatch this one: the real prepaid counter is OUTSIDE T3, between lanes 2 and 3, past gates 5 and 6. The counters inside the terminal charge two or three times the real fare. Pay at the outside one, keep the slip and hand it over on arrival. Ignore any loose offers.·Fares and timesBharat Prepaid (antes policía de Delhi)

Before you fly, or on the layover. Pay per visit, whatever airline.

• Encalm Loungefrom €26.00
• Domestic Loungefrom €26.00
• Encalm Loungefrom €26.00
• Encalm Lounge, Domestic-T2from €39.90

• MumbaiBOM8 routes