Travelling to Milan?
Milan is Italy’s economic capital and its least Italian city: until you climb the Duomo terraces or hit the Navigli at sunset. The Last Supper is real, but tickets vanish: book weeks ahead.

MXP
What to see in Milan
8 ROUTESOur routes, not a list of everything. Places that have been there for centuries: no opening times or prices, which go stale.
- 01
Milan in a day
8 hYou go up on the roof. That’s the answer: you walk the cathedral from above, among the spires, and almost nobody knows.The Duomo roof · The Madonnina, and the height rule · The Galleria, and the bull · The Sforza Castle and the last Pietà · Aperitivo on the NavigliRead the full guide - 02
A weekend in Milan
18 hThe Last Supper is booked months ahead and seen in fifteen minutes, thirty-five people at a time. It survived a bomb that erased the room it’s in.Saturday: the Last Supper · Saturday: the Pinacoteca di Brera · Saturday night: La Scala and the gods · Sunday: Lake ComoRead the full guide - 03
What to see in Milan
The cathedral took six hundred years: begun in 1386, last door fitted in 1965. The quarry that gives it marble has belonged to it since 1387.The Duomo · The Last Supper · The Rondanini Pietà · The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II · The Cimitero MonumentaleRead the full guide - 04
Eating and drinking in Milan
Aperitivo was invented here and it isn’t a promotion: it’s how half the city has dinner on a weekday. And the risotto is yellow from saffron, which cost like gold.Aperitivo · Risotto alla milanese · The cotoletta and the ossobuco · Panettone · Coffee, standing and not sittingRead the full guide - 05
Where to stay in Milan
Here the metro genuinely works, and that changes the question: it isn’t which quarter, it’s which line. Milan is the Italian city that runs on time.Duomo and the centre · Brera · Navigli and Porta Genova · Isola and Porta Nuova · CentraleRead the full guide - 06
Day trips from Milan
Como forty minutes, Bergamo fifty, Turin an hour. Milan is a city for working in during the week and leaving on Sunday.Lake Como · Bergamo Alta · Turin · The Certosa di Pavia · VeronaRead the full guide - 07
From Malpensa airport to the centre
The Malpensa Express has two branches and that’s the only real dilemma: Cadorna drops you by the Duomo, Centrale connects you to all of Italy.The Cadorna branch · The Centrale branch · The coach, and when not to take itRead the full guide - 08
Milan: practical tips
It’s the Italian city that works, which throws people who came looking for Italy. Book the Last Supper before the flight and check the fair calendar.Book the Last Supper before the flight · The fair calendar · The fog, and winter · Area C, and don’t bring a car · Mobile dataRead the full guide
Airport to city centre
2 OPTIONSThe real options, with what actually decides it: which terminal it leaves from and where it drops you. Fares and timetables live with the operator, who keeps them current.
- TrainMalpensa ExpressCadorna · Porta Garibaldi · Milano CentraleTwo branches: Cadorna drops you near the Duomo. Centrale links to the rest of Italy. Take whichever leaves first.·Fares and timesTrenord
- BusMalpensa ShuttleMilano CentraleCoaches leave every few minutes and are the budget option. In traffic, the train always wins.·Fares and timesMalpensa Shuttle
VIP lounges in Milan
4Before you fly, or on the layover. Pay per visit, whatever airline.