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Travelling to Tokyo?

Tokyo isn’t one city but twenty-three, each with its own centre, which is why it never ends. The golden rule: pick two districts a day and take the train, which gets there before you do. Haneda is in the city. Narita is 60 km out.

Tokyo, Japan
© Benh LIEU SONG · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

NRT · HND

What to see in Tokyo

8 ROUTES

Our routes, not a list of everything. Places that have been there for centuries: no opening times or prices, which go stale.

  1. 01

    Tokyo in a day

    10 h
    The shrine’s forest was planted by hand, the tower is 634 m because of a pun, and Shibuya crossing moves 3,000 people at a time.Meiji Jingū and its fake forest · Harajuku and Omotesandō · The Shibuya crossing · The free viewpoint in Shinjuku · Sensō-ji, in Asakusa · Golden Gai, to finishRead the full guide
  2. 02

    Tokyo in a weekend

    48 h
    Two days and twenty-three districts: you have to give things up. The plan that works, and the tuna market that isn’t where you think.Friday night: izakaya under the tracks · Saturday: the modern west · Sunday, early: Toyosu, not Tsukiji · Sunday: Asakusa, Ueno and old TokyoRead the full guide
  3. 03

    Eating in Tokyo

    3 h
    The city with the most Michelin stars in the world, and the best of it is still in a basement, under a railway, or in a 7-Eleven.The konbini, seriously · The depachika · The ramen, and the ticket machine · Sushi for breakfast · Yakitori under the tracksRead the full guide
  4. 04

    Tokyo’s neighbourhoods

    6 h
    Twenty-three districts that were cities. One escaped the earthquake and the bombs, and there you see the Tokyo that no longer exists.Yanaka · Shimokitazawa · Shinjuku · Yanaka, Nezu and SendagiRead the full guide
  5. 05

    Day trips from Tokyo

    9 h
    A 13-metre bronze Buddha an hour away, a lacquered shrine in the mountains, and Fuji, which only shows up in winter.Kamakura · 1 h · Nikkō · 2 h · Mount Fuji · 2 h · Yokohama · 30 minRead the full guide
  6. 06

    Narita and Haneda to Tokyo

    1 h
    Haneda is in the city and Narita is 60 km out. That detail on your ticket decides an hour of your life and a fair bit of money.Haneda: the easy one · Narita: the Skyliner and the N’EX · The IC card: they’re on sale again · The last trainRead the full guide
  7. 07

    Tokyo: how not to get it wrong

    1 h
    There are no bins and there’s a dark reason. You don’t tip. And in Tokyo you stand left, but in Osaka you stand right.There are no bins, and there’s a reason · You don’t tip. Ever · Stand left in Tokyo, right in Osaka · Phone on silent, and no talking · The shoes, and the onsenRead the full guide
  8. 08

    Tokyo: practical tips

    1 h
    Japan isn’t in the EU, you still need cash, and the last train is at midnight. And August is a humid oven.Japan is not in the EU · You still need cash · The last train, and the heat · The language is less of a problem than you thinkRead the full guide

Airport to city centre

4 OPTIONS

The real options, with what actually decides it: which terminal it leaves from and where it drops you. Fares and timetables live with the operator, who keeps them current.

VIP lounges in Tokyo

6

Before you fly, or on the layover. Pay per visit, whatever airline.

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1
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