Travelling to Tokyo?
Tokyo isn’t one city but twenty-three, each with its own centre, which is why it never ends. The golden rule: pick two districts a day and take the train, which gets there before you do. Haneda is in the city. Narita is 60 km out.

NRT · HND
What to see in Tokyo
8 ROUTESOur routes, not a list of everything. Places that have been there for centuries: no opening times or prices, which go stale.
- 01
Tokyo in a day
10 hThe shrine’s forest was planted by hand, the tower is 634 m because of a pun, and Shibuya crossing moves 3,000 people at a time.Meiji Jingū and its fake forest · Harajuku and Omotesandō · The Shibuya crossing · The free viewpoint in Shinjuku · Sensō-ji, in Asakusa · Golden Gai, to finishRead the full guide - 02
Tokyo in a weekend
48 hTwo days and twenty-three districts: you have to give things up. The plan that works, and the tuna market that isn’t where you think.Friday night: izakaya under the tracks · Saturday: the modern west · Sunday, early: Toyosu, not Tsukiji · Sunday: Asakusa, Ueno and old TokyoRead the full guide - 03
Eating in Tokyo
3 hThe city with the most Michelin stars in the world, and the best of it is still in a basement, under a railway, or in a 7-Eleven.The konbini, seriously · The depachika · The ramen, and the ticket machine · Sushi for breakfast · Yakitori under the tracksRead the full guide - 04
Tokyo’s neighbourhoods
6 hTwenty-three districts that were cities. One escaped the earthquake and the bombs, and there you see the Tokyo that no longer exists.Yanaka · Shimokitazawa · Shinjuku · Yanaka, Nezu and SendagiRead the full guide - 05
Day trips from Tokyo
9 hA 13-metre bronze Buddha an hour away, a lacquered shrine in the mountains, and Fuji, which only shows up in winter.Kamakura · 1 h · Nikkō · 2 h · Mount Fuji · 2 h · Yokohama · 30 minRead the full guide - 06
Narita and Haneda to Tokyo
1 hHaneda is in the city and Narita is 60 km out. That detail on your ticket decides an hour of your life and a fair bit of money.Haneda: the easy one · Narita: the Skyliner and the N’EX · The IC card: they’re on sale again · The last trainRead the full guide - 07
Tokyo: how not to get it wrong
1 hThere are no bins and there’s a dark reason. You don’t tip. And in Tokyo you stand left, but in Osaka you stand right.There are no bins, and there’s a reason · You don’t tip. Ever · Stand left in Tokyo, right in Osaka · Phone on silent, and no talking · The shoes, and the onsenRead the full guide - 08
Tokyo: practical tips
1 hJapan isn’t in the EU, you still need cash, and the last train is at midnight. And August is a humid oven.Japan is not in the EU · You still need cash · The last train, and the heat · The language is less of a problem than you thinkRead the full guide
Airport to city centre
4 OPTIONSThe real options, with what actually decides it: which terminal it leaves from and where it drops you. Fares and timetables live with the operator, who keeps them current.
- TrainNarita ExpressNRT → Tokyo Station · Shibuya · ShinjukuJR’s direct train to the major stations. Covered if you already have a JR Pass, though the pass doesn’t pay off for a Tokyo-only trip.·Fares and timesJR East
- TrainSkylinerNRT → Ueno · NipporiThe N’EX’s rival: quicker to Ueno. For the north and east of the city, it wins.·Fares and timesKeisei
- TrainHND → HamamatsuchōHaneda to town in a long quarter-hour, changing to the Yamanote line. At Hamamatsuchō you can also reach the subway (Asakusa and Oedo) by walking to Daimon, which is right next door.·Fares and timesTokyo Monorail
- TrainKeikyūHND → Shinagawa · SengakujiThe monorail’s alternative: many trains continue straight onto the Asakusa subway line.·Fares and timesKeikyu
VIP lounges in Tokyo
6Before you fly, or on the layover. Pay per visit, whatever airline.