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Travelling to Osaka?

Osaka spent centuries as the merchants’ city while Kyoto had the court and Tokyo the military power, and that left it a character other Japanese recognise instantly: more direct, louder and a good deal less ceremonious. People greet you sooner, haggle, and eat standing up. It has its own word for its relationship with food, kuidaore, which roughly means eating yourself into ruin.

Osaka, Japan
© Sakai Yayoi · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

KIX · ITM

What to see in Osaka

8 ROUTES

Our routes, not a list of everything. Places that have been there for centuries: no opening times or prices, which go stale.

  1. 01

    Osaka in a day

    9 h
    A castle that inside is a concrete building with a lift, and a canal where people photograph themselves with a 1935 advert.Osaka Castle · Dotonbori · Shinsekai and the Tsutenkaku tower · The Umeda Sky BuildingRead the full guide
  2. 02

    A weekend in Osaka

    20 h
    Based in Osaka, Kyoto is fifteen minutes by bullet train and Nara forty. It’s the best-placed city in Japan.Saturday: the city · Saturday night: eating in the south · Sunday A: Nara · Sunday B: HimejiRead the full guide
  3. 03

    What to see in Osaka

    14 h
    A shrine with a bridge so steep that climbing it counts as purification, and an Expo site already being dismantled.Sumiyoshi Taisha · Shitenno-ji · Yumeshima: what’s left of the Expo · Universal Studios and the Nintendo worldRead the full guide
  4. 04

    Eating and drinking in Osaka

    3 h
    There’s one rule that gets you corrected out loud if you break it: you don’t dip a kushikatsu skewer twice.Takoyaki · Okonomiyaki, the Osaka way · Kushikatsu and the sauce rule · Kuromon market and the butamanRead the full guide
  5. 05

    Where to stay in Osaka

    1 h
    The city divides into north and south, Kita and Minami, and choosing between them changes the trip.Namba and Shinsaibashi (Minami) · Umeda (Kita) · Shin-Osaka · Tennoji and the southRead the full guide
  6. 06

    Day trips from Osaka

    10 h
    From here, Kyoto is closer than many Tokyo districts are to central Tokyo. And there’s a mountain with a cemetery of two hundred thousand graves.Kioto · Mount Koya · Kobe · Nara and its deerRead the full guide
  7. 07

    From Osaka’s airports to the centre

    1 h
    If you arrive with a Japan Rail Pass, there’s a fast train you can’t use and one you can. Confusing them costs money.The Nankai Rapi:t, to the south · The JR Haruka, north and on to Kyoto · From Itami: the monorail · The bus, and why not the taxiRead the full guide
  8. 08

    Osaka: practical tips

    1 h
    Here you stand on the right on the escalator, the opposite of Tokyo, and it’s the first thing that marks you out.The ICOCA card and the passes · Money and tipping · Eating while walking, and the bins · When to come, and the summer · Mobile dataRead the full guide

Airport to city centre

5 OPTIONS

The real options, with what actually decides it: which terminal it leaves from and where it drops you. Fares and timetables live with the operator, who keeps them current.

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