Travelling to Belgrade?

Our routes, not a list of everything. Places that have been there for centuries: no opening times or prices, which go stale.

1. 01

   Belgrade in a day

   8 hThis city has been destroyed and rebuilt around forty times. That’s why almost nothing is old except the fortress, which has held the same corner for two thousand years.Kalemegdan · Skadarlija · The church of Saint Sava · The House of FlowersRead the full guide
2. 02

   A weekend in Belgrade

   20 hThe clubs are on barges moored to the river and there are around three hundred. In summer you dance on the water until dawn, and that’s the weekend.Saturday: the Museum of Yugoslavia · Saturday: New Belgrade · Saturday night: the splavovi · Sunday: ZemunRead the full guide
3. 03

   What to see in Belgrade

   The fortress has watched the corner where the Sava enters the Danube for two thousand years. Everything else you see here is under a century old, for a reason.Kalemegdan · Saint Sava · The House of Flowers · The 1999 ruinsRead the full guide
4. 04

   Eating in Belgrade

   Ajvar is made in the street, in autumn, by several families at once, for the whole year. And your mother-in-law’s is always better than any you buy.Rakija · Ćevapi and kajmak · Burek, and the argument · The kafanaRead the full guide
5. 05

   Where to stay in Belgrade

   Zemun was another empire until 1934 and New Belgrade was a swamp until 1948. Choosing a neighbourhood here is choosing a century.Stari Grad · Dorćol · Zemun · New BelgradeRead the full guide
6. 06

   Day trips from Belgrade

   The settlement at Lepenski Vir is eleven thousand years old, and its sculptures have fish faces. When the dam was going to flood it, they moved the whole thing uphill.Lepenski Vir · The Iron Gates · Novi Sad · Fruška GoraRead the full guide
7. 07

   From Belgrade airport to the centre

   The taxi voucher comes from a kiosk in baggage reclaim, BEFORE you exit. Cross the door without it and you’re negotiating. With it, there’s nothing to negotiate.The taxi voucher · The A1 minibus · Route 72Read the full guide
8. 08

   Belgrade: practical tips

   Serbia isn’t in the EU or in Schengen and it uses the dinar, not the euro. That means a border in and out, and changing money on arrival.The dinar, and the border · The hospitality, which is serious · The two alphabets · Mobile dataRead the full guide

The real options, with what actually decides it: which terminal it leaves from and where it drops you. Fares and timetables live with the operator, who keeps them current.

• BusA1Trg SlavijaThe express minibus between the airport and Slavija square, stopping in the centre. The direct no-taxi option.·Fares and timesAeropuerto Nikola Tesla
• Bus72Zeleni VenacThe regular city line: cheap, and it stops everywhere along the way.·Fares and timesGSP Beograd
• TaxiCentar (~18 km)Buy the flat-fare voucher at the terminal desk and hand it to the driver: it spares you the haggling.·Fares and timesAeropuerto Nikola Tesla